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The Traveller's Chronicle - ALSA Conference 2010 Yogyakarta, Indonesia

Selamat Datang!

Those are the words that immediately welcome you upon arrival at any Indonesian Airport. Comparable to the Filipino’s “Mabuhay” and the Hawaiian’s “Aloha,” one is ushered into a millennia-old cultural experience of a lifetime: by a greeting of “safe coming” from a warm spirited people that at one glance, you would think, looks like us – Filipinos.

The international view of the world regarding Indonesia shaped what we Filipinos would initially have in mind about a place that is more or less like the Philippines. The country was colonized by the Dutch. The streets are crowded. The climate is hot and extremely humid. The air is polluted. The government is corrupt, the economy is down, the military is always on the verge of a coup and the long standing secessionist movement somewhere in the country is making some strides in the countryside. In short, just like home – a place so long forgotten and forsaken by time, that whatever good it has, we have to explore deeper than skin deep.

That is why, when we learned that Yogyakarta (pronounced as Jogjakarta) and Semarang, Indonesia were chosen as the venue of this year’s Asian Law Students’ Association (ALSA) Conference, I decided to do some research on the locations.


VENUE: More than the usual

The cities are both in the central part of Java, Indonesia’s main island. Semarang is the capital city of the Province of Central Java and is a center of Javanese culture. On the other hand, the City of Yogyakarta is the capital of a Special Administrative Region and is the former Indonesian capital city before it was transferred to Jakarta after the Merdeka (meaning freedom, is the name called on the Indonesian War of Independence). It is also the only remaining place in Indonesia that has retained the monarchial Sultanate of Yogyakarta as its political ruler, serving concurrently as the province’s Governor. However, the more interesting fact about the two cities is that along the provinces’ inner roads, enlightening gems abound – a treasure trove of the ancient wisdom and culture of its people.

Both Semarang and Yogyakarta are known as centers of classical Javanese fine art and culture such as batik, ballet, drama, music, poetry and puppet shows. They are also famous as centers for Indonesian higher education with several universities within the area. Both more importantly, the ancient temples of Prambanan and Borobudur, constructed during the pre-Islamic 9th century period, are located at the said provinces.

Batik

It is the national cultural attire of the Indonesians. It may be made of cotton or silk cloth. Javanese traditional batik, especially from Yogyakarta and Surakarta, has special meanings rooted to the Javanese conceptualization of the universe. Traditional colors include indigo, dark brown, and white which represent the three major Hindu Gods (Brahmā, Visnu, and Śhiva). This is related to the fact that natural dyes are only available in indigo and brown. Certain patterns can only be worn by nobility; traditionally, wider stripes or wavy lines of greater width indicated higher rank. Consequently, during Javanese ceremonies, one could determine the royal lineage of a person by the cloth he or she was wearing.

Other regions of Indonesia have their own unique patterns which normally take themes from everyday lives, incorporating patterns such as flowers, nature, animals, folklore or people. The colors of pesisir batik, from the coastal cities of northern Java, are especially vibrant, and it absorbs influence from the Javanese, Arab, Chinese and Dutch culture. In the colonial times pesisir batik was a favorite of the Peranakan Chinese, Dutch and Eurasians.

UNESCO designated Indonesian batik as a Masterpiece of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity. As part of the acknowledgment, UNESCO insisted that Indonesia preserve their heritage.

At the Danar Hadi Museum, we were shown how batiks were made. Each batik costs around 2 million to 5 million Indonesian Rupiah each or about 10 thousand to 25 thousand Philippine Pesos.

However, along the trip, despite the beauty of this masterpieces, one should not fail to inquire on the behind the scenes activity on the making of a batik. When we were toured at the batik factory at the back of the museum, one would be distraught at the poor working conditions of the employees of the factory. With no protective gear like masks to prevent the inhalation of poisonous fumes and gloves to protect the hands and arms against hot wax. It is also worthy to note the lack of exhaust pipes in the assembly line, which a person could liken to a large gymnasium. But the most stunning fact is that although a batik costs millions of rupiahs a piece, a worker is paid 30 thousand Indonesian rupiah a day for a 10 hour work schedule.

Prambanan Temple

Prambanan is the ninth century Hindu temple compound in Central Java, Indonesia, dedicated to Trimurti, the expression of God as the Creator (Brahma), the Sustainer (Vishnu) and the Destroyer (Shiva). The temple compound located approximately 18 km east of Yogyakarta City, on the boundary between Yogyakarta and Central Java province.

The temple is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It currently is the largest Hindu temple in Indonesia, and is one of the largest Hindu temples in Southeast Asia. It is characterized by its tall and pointed architecture, typical of Hindu temple architecture, and by the towering 47m high central building inside a large complex of individual temples.

Borobudur Temple

Borobudur is a ninth-century Mahayana Buddhist monument in Magelang, Central Java, Indonesia. The monument comprises six square platforms topped by three circular platforms, and is decorated with 2,672 relief panels and 504 Buddha statues. A main dome, located at the center of the top platform, is surrounded by 72 Buddha statues seated inside perforated stupa.

The monument is both a shrine to the Lord Buddha and a place for Buddhist pilgrimage. The journey for pilgrims begins at the base of the monument and follows a path circumambulating the monument while ascending to the top through the three levels of Buddhist cosmology, namely Kāmadhātu (the world of desire), Rupadhatu (the world of forms) and Arupadhatu (the world of formlessness). During the journey the monument guides the pilgrims through a system of stairways and corridors with 1,460 narrative relief panels on the wall and the balustrades.

Evidence suggests Borobudur was abandoned following the fourteenth century decline of Buddhist and Hindu kingdoms in Java, and the Javanese conversion to Islam. Worldwide knowledge of its existence was sparked in 1814 by Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, the then British ruler of Java, who was advised of its location by native Indonesians. Borobudur has since been preserved through several restorations. The largest restoration project was undertaken between 1975 and 1982 by the Indonesian government and UNESCO, following which the monument was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Borobudur is still used for pilgrimage; once a year Buddhists in Indonesia celebrate Vesak at the monument, and Borobudur is Indonesia's single most visited tourist attraction.


FOOD: Taste buds like no other

The Indonesian cuisine, just like the Philippines, is a reflection of the vast cultural exposures that it experienced. There is probably not a single "Indonesian" cuisine, but rather, a diversity of regional cuisines influenced by local culture and foreign influences. However, predominant in their cooking is the distinctive spicy taste, perhaps owing to the historical “Spice Islands,” the very reason why Ferdinand Magellan set sailed towards the west, landed on the shores of an island he thought was Moluccas and claimed it in behalf of the Spanish Crown. And the rest is history.


MUSIC: Sounds like . . .

Although I forgot to take pictures of Indonesia’s traditional musical instruments, the ethnic sounds of Indonesia, particularly that of the Javanese shows signs of Asian and Islamic influences. The musical heritage of Java and Indonesia are priceless jewels that ought to be heard by a traveler whose heart is weary of burdens. When one hears it, it is relaxing and enjoyable. It may be solemn and majestic, but it could also be lively and upbeat. The sounds reflect the natural sounds of the water breaking the beach, of birds chirping in the forest covers, of the erupting volcano and of raging storms. It is a mixture of East and West, photosynthesis of some sort and a reverberation of the amazing cultural experience that is Indonesia.


FINAL HURRAY

I shall go back in Indonesia, as I forgot to buy some fridge magnet for my mom. But more importantly, my taste of Indonesian culture was a bit short. I am coming back for more. Goreng, bakso, bintang, Borobudur, batik, Kota Gedhe silver ring, Jogja, kraton, Malioboro, and many more, wait for me, for I shall return.

In the meantime, to all Indonesians: Terima Kasih!...
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